It is therefore natural that disgust is also heavily represented in food literature; and it is abundant in Nigel Slater's Toast. However, it is noticeable that disgust's effect is lessened by the presence of love.
This is a relevant part of an essay I wrote on disgust for my degree.
"Elements
of disgust are
present throughout Toast,
however, it is only when his loving mum dies that it becomes so
apparent. The opening paragraph of the memoir ends with the image of
butter with “black bits in it” (1) and we are soon after informed
that there was always a “whiff of [the incontinent] Auntie Fanny”
(4) in Nigel's house. However, although these depictions are
unpleasant, they never fully disgust the reader. At this stage, they
are surrounded by images of love, comfort and on the whole,
happiness. After describing the butter Nigel goes on to say that
despite his mothers “failings” “it is impossible not to love
her” (1). Auntie Fanny's incontinence is only referred to as
“a pity” (4) because
other than that he believes that “every child's Christmas memories
should smell like that” (4). Both the reader and Nigel are
inattentive to the disgust at this point because there is the
presence of love. William Miller in The Anatomy of Disgust suggests
that love is “that state in which various disgust rules are relaxed
or suspended” (132). Love's ability to relax disgust suggests that
is a more powerful emotion, and able to overcome disgust, explaining
why it does not offend either Nigel or the reader in these early
passages. However, as the narrative progresses, and the love in
Nigel's life gradually vanishes, disgust becomes more apparent.
The
“Tinned Ham” episode is one of the first passages in the memoir
that disgust has full impact. Nigel's disgust is the first to be
constructed. He describes the “cold boiled” ham and the “evil
jelly” (33), comparing it to the things usually considered most
abject, such as a corpse and excrement. He portrays it as being
“prise[d] from its aluminium coffin” and compares it to “poo on
[his] plate” (33). Describing the ham in this way not only informs
the reader of how much Nigel was disgusted by it, but prompts them
to consider the disgust they would feel if being presented with such
things as “poo” or a corpse to eat.
The next persons disgust to be constructed is Nigel's Father's. Nigel
suggests a few things that his Father could have been disgusted by,
but it is the description of himself just before “pushing the jelly
to the edge of his plate” that the reader can relate to; the
disgust felt towards someone 'playing with their food'. Finally, with
the ruthless action of Nigel's Dad flinging Nigel's dinner across the
lawn, the readers moral disgust is constructed. It is with the
wearing away of his mother, and the replacement of her with the
unloving father that disgust becomes noticeable; there is no longer
the strength of love it relax it, and it comes to Nigel's aid as
resistance."
I don't believe that disgust can be completely overcome by love, (I still don't eat Jelly beans - although I have no problem being in the same room as them now) but I think love can help make disgusting things, bearable.